How to shelter climbing roses for the winter: how to properly prepare the creeping flower species for cold weather, from which and when to make a protective structure and its photo

A climbing rose is a rose with hanging stems or creeping shoots. It serves as a unique decoration element in any garden plot. And so that throughout the summer she would please the gardener's eye with her lush flowering, it is necessary to provide her with all the conditions for a comfortable wintering.

This is one of the responsible measures for the care of the plant. Our article will tell you how to make shelters for a flower for the winter, and show a photo of such structures.

Do I need to prepare the plant for the winter season?

Preparing roses for winter is an indispensable component of full plant care. Do not naively rely on the characteristic of "good frost resistance", which can often be heard from sellers in the store.

Frost resistance should be understood as the ability of a flower to tolerate low temperature ... with its relative constancy. However, in recent years, the climate has been increasingly bringing surprises: very low temperatures during the day can change to 0C. It is these differences that can provoke the death of a plant, if you do not first worry about it. Therefore, you need to decide in advance how to protect plants from the coming cold, and prepare the necessary material.

Why is this procedure so important?

New rose varieties developed as a result of selection have no period of organic rest: with the onset of frost, vegetation stops, and with an increase in temperature indicators it resumes. The consequence of the resumption of vegetation is the beginning of sap flow in the rose. The juice freezes already at a temperature of -2C. The plant will immediately begin to crack, as the juice turned into ice will destroy the structure of the stems of the plant.

At the first thaw, the cracked areas (frost-holes) will begin to rot, creating a threat to the whole plant: it becomes "open" to all infectious diseases and pests. Such a phenomenon can be avoided provided that the juice flowing from the rose’s “wound” dries quickly and the surface heals. The conclusion is this: roses should hibernate dry, and this is only possible if you place them in a shelter in which temperature fluctuations will be minimized.

When is it produced?

Strange to start preparing a rose for winter, oddly enough, back in the summer. In July, the type of top dressing should be changed, and the last top dressing is usually done in mid-September. The remaining preparatory work should be completed before mid-November.

It should also be remembered that cover the plant only in dry weather and only when the thermometer is above 0.

In spring and in the first half of summer, it is recommended to feed the plant with azate-containing fertilizers, and closer to autumn - potash and phosphorus fertilizers. Potassium and phosphorus are elements that help ripen wood, lay future buds and buds, and strengthen the root system.

What does it include?

Preparatory work on preparing a climbing rose for winter is an integral element of plant care. They include trimming the bush, removing leaves from the plant, cleaning debris in and around the bush, hilling, processing with drugs.

Step-by-step instructions for preparing the soil and plants for the cold season

Stop fertilizer containing nitrogen in July.
In August, phosphorus and potash fertilizers should be introduced (one in August, the other in September).
Since September, it is necessary to stop digging and loosening the soil between rose bushes, the formation of the plant. Watering the rosary should also be limited.
In late October - early November, you must remove all leaves along with petioles. Even a small part of the leaf remaining on the stem will begin to rot and provoke rotting of the sleeping buds of the shoot, and sometimes the shoot as a whole.
For the same reasons, it is necessary to select fallen leaves, grass, and garbage from the bush.
An important step is pruning a climbing rose by 1/3 of its height. Also removed are old stems with dark bark, broken and not having time to mature shoots by winter.
Slices should be treated with brilliant green or sprinkled with charcoal.
When pruning, the desired direction of plant growth should be formed, taking into account the growth conditions of the rose (support, arch, etc.).
After a day, 1 to 2 buckets of dry sand should be poured into the middle of the bush (depending on the size of the bush).
After 2 days, the remaining lashes are treated with a solution of iron sulfate (3%).

Attention! If, despite the onset of autumn, the rose continues to bloom actively, and the shoots develop, it is recommended to pinch the shoots and bend the stems at the base of the buds to inhibit the vegetation.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a shelter for creeping flower species

Before the onset of frost, the climbing rose is removed from the support and bends to the ground. It is important that the tops of the shoots do not touch the ground.
In several places, the bush can be pulled together with twine. This must be done very carefully so that the spikes do not injure neighboring shoots.
It is necessary to bring down solid wood panels (width 80 cm, the length depends on the size of the plant).
On top of the lashes laid on the ground, it is necessary to build a gable roof from downed shields. To prevent the shields from moving apart, it is necessary to fix them with wooden pegs. In no case should there be gaps! The distance between the laid lashes and shields must be at least 15 - 20 cm.
From above, the wooden shelter must be covered with a plastic film of the required size (it should be enough for the ends), carefully fix it.
The ends of the "roof" remain open until stable dry first frosts (-5С, -7С) so that the lashes undergo natural hardening.
Sidewalls (pre-harvested from plywood or fiberboard) must be closed closer to the end of November, after freezing the soil under cover.

If the stems of the rose are too stiff, then bending them to the ground will be extremely difficult. In this case, you can try to do this in several stages (2 - 3), using staples made of thick wire of different heights. This should be done extremely carefully, bending the shoots in the direction opposite to the bends of the shoots at their base. The duration of this rocking procedure is 10 to 12 days. If this method did not work, then you can tightly wrap the stalks with lapnik, and cover the roots separately.

This method of sheltering roses is relevant if they are planted in straight rows. When the flowers are planted on flower beds along with other plants, then each bush of a climbing rose needs to be covered separately. The shelter method in this case is completely different:

Gently bend the lashes to the ground with brackets, pull them together with twine.
Build a frame of iron rods or a rigid wire of the desired shape over the bush. It should be strong enough to withstand the weather and a thick layer of snow.
From above the frame is covered with waterproof material (fiberglass, spanbond). Lutrasil and polyethylene are not suitable: lutrasil is moisture-permeable, and polythene will create a greenhouse effect, and the rose can dry out before spring.

To prevent the scourge of roses from becoming a victim of rodents, before shelter it is possible to spread poison or cat-soaked sawdust between the shoots. Otherwise, in the spring you can see the thinned branches, which will be unviable.

Photo

Here you can see how the right shelters for creeping types of roses look.

Winter care

If there is snow on the shields (about 10 cm), then inside the shelter, even in the most severe frosts, the temperature will not drop below -8C. Everything under the walls of the shelter is covered with hoarfrost, which slowly melts during the thaw, and the temperature in this case does not rise above 0C. And this means that pathogenic microbes infecting the plant have no chance.

During the thaw period, the ends of the shields can be opened for ventilation and to avoid the escaping of shoots of roses. If the winter is warm, then you can leave ajar openings previously done at the ends of the shelter.

It is important to monitor the integrity of the film covering the rose, since it is getting into the wet snow and rain that can trigger the onset of decay processes.

In the spring, shelter cannot be removed abruptly: at stable -3С the ends of the "roof" open and leave them in this position until the soil is completely thawed. Shields that shelter flowers are removed with the onset of positive temperatures, then fiberglass or spanbond is removed.

Sure, preparing a climbing rose for winter is a complex and multi-stage processrequiring a certain amount of time for the grower. But without this moment it is impossible to fully maintain the plant in winter.