Rules for leaving and photos of Pelargonium South: Shukar, Varvara Krasa, Nina and other varieties from Y. Gonchar's own selection

Pelargonium is a flower that captivates the hearts and imaginations of gardeners for the past three centuries.

A very small number of flora representatives are able to delight with bright colors and a pleasant aroma.

In addition, this is one of the cheerful plants. A delicate and beautiful flower will successfully die in any environment.

But it is important to know how to properly care for, propagate.

History of occurrence

Initially, India was considered the birthplace of pelargonium, but this statement was erroneous. And all because, it was delivered on European ships that cruised to the shores of India. As it turned out South Africa - the true place of growth of pelargonium. There, on the Cape of Good Hope, sailors bought exotic plants for breeders and botanists. In this part of the world, 80% of the species of known pelargonium were found.

In 1951, in England, an association of amateurs and breeders was created under the name of the British Society of Pelargonium and Geranium, led by John Cross. Thanks to this, a new wave of popularity of pelargonium began, the interest in marvelous flowers revived, which does not fade even today.

Appearance and grades

Pelargonium is a perennial, which is a herbaceous or semi-shrub plant. Inflorescences have an irregular shape. Petals are white, pink, shades of red.

The fruit is a box of seeds with sepals. The foliage is green, covered with small villi. The leaves have a pleasant smell.

Experts in the field of botany count over 250 varieties of pelargonium, which are divided into 30 groups. Main groups:

1. zonal;
2. buccal;
3. fragrant;
4. royal;
5. Angels
6. unique.

Greenhouses of Great Britain, Belgium, Holland, Russia engage in the selection of pelargonium. I would like to highlight the domestic amateur breeder Julia Gonchar. On her account such varieties:

• Pelargonium South Aksinya.
• South Alexander.
• South Anise.
• South Giselle.
• South Yesenia.
• South Day.
• South Tamil.
• South Ireland.
• South Siberia.
• South Ether and others.

Description and photo of the species of own selection Yu. Gonchar

Below is a detailed description and photo of the varieties Shukar, Barbara Krasa, Nina, Kamalia.

Nina

Plants of the species zonal, dwarf size. Flowers with thick double petals, pale pale pink with a delicate purple hue. The lush compact bush easily forms itself. The stem and peduncles are dense, fleshy, directed upwards. Inflorescences in shape resemble roses. The color of the foliage is golden with a brown border.

This sort of pelargonium got its name in honor of the grandmother Julia Gonchar. The price of the rooted cuttings is 1000-1500 rubles.

Shukar

This species also belongs to the zonal species. Standard size, requiring formation. Inflorescences are scattered in different directions. Shades: cherry, scarlet, dark red with tints. The texture of the flowers is semi-double and simple, large in size. The shape of the petals is slightly elongated. The name "Shukar" in translation from the gypsy language means "beauty". The price of the rooted cuttings varies between 1000-1200 rubles.

Barbara Krasa

Upright zonal plant, dwarf size. The bush is dense, dense, easily formed, and is characterized by proper growth. Large double flowers are light pink in color. In the sun, it acquires a more saturated pink shade. Pelargonium blooms for a long time and is plentiful. You can buy rooted cuttings within 500-700 rubles apiece.

Kamalia

Zone flower, dwarf size. The bush is branched, the foliage is green. Inflorescences have an original shape, slightly shabby. The color is pale pink, smoothly turning to saturated. Terry flowers texture. The variety is distinguished by long flowering, even in the winter. The cost of one cuttings is 700-1000 rubles.

How and where to plant?

Capacity for pelargonium choose a small diameter. Compact flower bushes will keep their shape better also flowering directly depends on the size of the pot. In large pots, the plant refuses to bloom. The material for the container, preferably clay. Necessarily need a drainage layer of at least 2 cm thick.

1. The plant should be placed in a pot carefully, the root system is fragile.
2. Then sprinkle it thoroughly with earth, without ramming it.
3. Top with a little moisten with warm, settled water.

Lighting

There is a lot of light. The plant loves the sun and bright light. Preference should be given to window sills on the south side. However, with poor ventilation, it can overheat, in which case you need to temporarily darken. With a lack of sunlight, the leaves turn yellow, the lower ones dry. For a uniformly lush crown, the flower must be regularly turned to the sun either on one side or the other.

The soil

For planting and transplanting, the soil needs loose, breathable, enriched with minerals. Pelargonium soil can be purchased ready-made in garden stores. Or cook yourself.

The composition of such a soil mixture: sheet land, peat or compost humus, sand. All components should be in equal proportions.

For safety reasons, the components of the mixture are best calcined for 30 minutes. You can also add perlite as a baking powder of the soil.

Indoor flower growing conditions

Pelargonium is not a demanding indoor flower. However, for a healthy and beautiful plant, comfortable conditions are important.

1. Indoor flower should be abundantly watered, but at the same time, water should not stagnate in the pot. Watering is plentiful, daily, especially in hot weather. In winter, you don’t need to water much, but you should not bring the soil to dry completely. If the watering is plentiful, traces of gray rot appear on the leaves, sometimes the stem rots, which can lead to the loss of the plant. If you water a little - the flower wilts, the leaves begin to turn yellow, dry out.
2. Humidity is not particularly important for pelargonium, on the contrary, excess moisture and stagnation of air can cause fungal diseases of the flower. Spraying should not be done.
3. In the warm season, the optimum temperature is +18 -22 ° C. A sufficiently high air temperature, especially indoors, will also adversely affect the plant.
4. In winter, pelargonium is in a state of sleep. Plants should be moved to a room with a temperature of + 12 ° C and regular ventilation. It can be a loggia, a balcony, a greenhouse. Watering should be scarce. Wintering lasts from about November to February. At the end of winter, pelargonium begins to wake up gradually.
5. Transplant and pruning. These procedures should be performed annually, preferably in the spring, in mid-March. In order for the plant to have a magnificent appearance, it is necessary to cut pieces. Perform this procedure only with a sharp knife diagonally. Broken parts of the plant may be affected by rot. And to enhance growth, branching pinch shoots.
6. To ensure proper nutrition, the flower needs to be fed, and organic fertilizers applied. But it is important to dose top dressing, follow all instructions indicated on the package:
   • “Mr. color” Saintpaulia to feed during or before flowering 1 cap per 1 liter of water.
   • "Gilea" - the recommended concentration of 2 caps per 1 liter.
   • "Fertimix" vermicompost for flowering 3 caps per 1 liter, apply once every 10-14 days.

It is forbidden to add nutrients in hot weather. In this case, the plant will endure stress.

1. To begin with, it should be moved to a cool place.
2. Next, be sure to water the flower, otherwise fertilizers can burn the roots.

Most of all, the plant needs additional nutrition in the summer and spring. therefore you need to feed until the beginning of September, about 1 time in 2 weeks. Do not feed the transplanted plant or just bought a plant, you need to wait at least 1 month. Also, it is not recommended to use mineral fertilizers for diseased flowers with an injured root system.

Breeding methods

Cuttings

1. At the end of flowering, the tops of the pelargonium are cut off. 3 top leaves are left, others are removed.
2. Sections must be treated with fungicide, ash or activated carbon. This is done so that the stem of the mother plant does not rot.
3. Then the cuttings are placed in transparent glasses with drainage, coke fiber or coarse sand is laid in them, and they are filled with liquid.

Another option is possible, put the cuttings in a container with water and as it dries, it must be added.

The roots appear quickly enough, after 10-12 days. The temperature in the room should be maintained at least + 20 ° C. After this, rooted cuttings are planted in previously prepared soil in a permanent place where they continue to develop.

Next, you can watch the video, which describes the cuttings:

Bush division

If the bush has grown, you can divide it. The best time for this is spring, when a plant is transplanted and soil is renewed.

1. First of all, the flower is taken out of the pot and the excess earth is shaken off.
2. Then carefully examine his kidneys.
3. A site with healthy kidneys is separated and transplanted into another container.

Diseases and harmful insects

Pelargonium is resistant to various diseases and pests. But they are still found:

• Gray mold, a disease affecting the leaves. You need to deal with it as follows: remove damaged leaves, stop watering the plant, put in the sun, spray with an antifungal agent.
• Rot of the root neck of the flower develops with excess moisture. This phenomenon is fatal to pelargonium.
• Rust appears as yellow spots on the bottom of the leaf.

Disease prevention is the treatment of plants with antifungal solutions before wintering. Also sprayed with fungicide, the drug "Dr. Foley" from fungi. Affected parts of the plant must be removed. Among insects, the main pests are whiteflies, aphids, ticks, thrips, mealybug.

Growing pelargonium at home is easy. Especially if you adhere to the basic rules for caring for the plant. Then the flower will grow and smell for joy.